well here i am in venice
after several gloriously sunny days
running all over venice with the divine tray, z and m
my trio of fun left last night and almost immediately it got cold
today the day i was to see their beach on the lido it is rainy and chilly
but dont feel sorry for me because all this rain just gives me an excuse to find some cosy cafe and sit around sipping wine and eating more food
i will give you the details of my eating all over rome in my next post but for today it is venice i shall chat about
nothing you ever see in a movie, a post card a book can ever really prepare you for venice
it is profoundly beautiful
i had thought of it as one floating city but in fact is is something around 112 little islands attached by something like 420 little bridges and one either walks until your feet fall off, mostly lost the entire time or you take these water buses called vapporettos
the gondolas and water taxis are pricey as all hell but worth doing at least once
you really cant say youve seen venice until you take a gondala
because no matter how beatiful it is
seeing the somewhat decaying, moss covered, haunting water side of things is all part of the beauty
the architecture is stunning and every house, every courtyard seems to be more beautiful the the last
after 3 days as m put it
his eyes were full
you simply feel as thought you cant take in any more beauty
z an astounding going on 11 year old delighted in feeding the pigeons at st marco where you buy a bag of corn and the pigeons cover you as they eat off your body, hands feet... being a new yorker i was less then thrilled at the prospect of being covered in pigeon poop
but z was ecstatic
eating in venice is wonderful of course if you love spaghetti covered in squid ink loads of squic they call cuttle fish, tons of pizza, tons of mussels
but here i am a jew who doesnt eat wheat lord help me
i wound up chowing down on lots of salad, lots of beef, chicken and fresh sea bass and polenta so i did not suffer
i would have eaten lots of risotto too but they almost always ask that you order this for 2 and there is a 25 minute wait and then they prefer to cover this in squid ink too
and to all this i say yech
but i ate well honeys
great fish, great polenta
its odd to say that i wound up adding salt lemon and sometimes vinegar to my food but the food is subtle and so what i did
i added parmesan and tomato sauce too and i dont care what anyone thinks
im a rebel

today i tried to find out what is gay in venice and other then venice itself which is so darling im sure queers world wide come here there seems to only be one gay bar in venice and thats for boys
oh well with all these churches the air may be too conservative
today im going to explore a museum or too and then more wine
i think ill have to do detox when i get back
ive had more wine then water since i got here
but hey
its venice!
to t m and z
i say come back i miss you
i almost got into a fist fight last night after you left with a rude waiter who didnt want me to use the bathroom
i stood right up to him
el conti!

ill be back in nyc soon enough
and then i shall give you a more detailed account of my food pilgrimage of going wheat free in italy
not easy kids
but do'able

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